<< June 8, 2008 >>
paris, day 1

Paris

today was perhaps the most perfect day i could hope to imagine. i arose somewhat later than i had suspected, as i had not changed the timezone on my ipod (my phone has been off since i left). after navigating the diminutive shower, i was off for adventure.

there are a lot of small markets, cafes, and brasseries in the vicinity of my hotel, but i wanted to walk around a bit first. i didn't set out in any particular direction, but i assumed i'd eventually make my way to Ile de la Cite, Jardin du Luxembourg, or Champs-Elysees, where i ate exactly three years ago tonight.

i settled on a cafe with some open tables (but not by any means empty) overlooking a church (not the notre dame or anything). despite riding the metro last night, it was not until the first sip of my citron presse that i was really and truly in paris. first came some mozarella, tomatoes, and basil, which was lovely, and then my crepe super mixte - a crepe with some sort of cheese and ham mixed in, and a sunny-side-up egg on top. this was not how i expected the egg to arrive, and in my previous trips, this style of egg may have been unwanted, but as of the past few years it is in fact my preferred vehicle for egg delivery (providing phil's deviled eggs are not in the vicinity). it was all quite delicious, and soon after i continued my walk.

unfortunately, it was sunday again, so many shops &c. were closed, but i did find an open bakery and had a coffee flavoured eclair (i didn't know it was this flavor when i ordered it).

i continued to walk around, trying to not just stay on larger streets, but eventually made my way to the seine and notre dame and all that business. this was after much walking, and i could use another break, so i sat down at one of the little cafes in Jardin des Tuileries and had another citron presse. i would have had a crepe or some sorbet, but the waiter never came by again. which was perfectly fine as well, as it was nice to sit and read for a while.

i spent the rest of the afternoon walking around, sitting and reading a chapter or two, and trying to find an atm which can handle eight-digit PINs (of which i finally found one). finally, it was late enough for dinner, so i found my way over to chez Clément. it was getting a little chilly out, so there were ample free tables outside, which i'd prefer anyway.

i do not know the name of the dish i ordered for an appetizer, but it was a goat cheese something with tomato something. what arrived was unexpected: it almost looked like a little tart, consisting of (cold) roasted/grilled zucchini, peppers, mushrooms, and then the cheese, with a pleasant tomato sauce.

i believe it to have been good at the time, but it paled by comparison to the main course. i wish i had seen the french menu, but its english title was duck delight: one duck something, one duck leg, and one duck sausage, with some sauce and mashed potatoes. duck has become one of my favourite dishes, despite my previous troubles, but this was almost certainly the most delicious i have had. i could probably have this for every meal the rest of my life and not grow tired of it (although it's likely i'd soon need a larger belt).

the dessert was not extraordinary, but this was no time for regrets; the meal, and day, was already a success.

previous trips abroad, both with others and alone, had brought a lot of anxiety esp. wrt. eating and getting around, but today was completely relaxed and effortless; a real joy. it's only the first day here and already i'm wishing for another week here, or even not leaving at all. oh well.

a brief walk & metro trip and it's back at the hotel to rest up for more radiohead tomorrow. perfect.